Sailing the Sea of Cortez

A bareboat escape to serene anchorages, turquoise water, and Baja sun 

Thinking About a Bareboat Charter?

If you already have plenty of sailing experience, you should be able to book a bareboat charter using your sailing resume — a lot of charter companies will accept equivalent experience instead of formal certifications. I had been sailing for just under two years when I did my first week-long bareboat trip. By then, I’d completed ASA 101, 103, and 104, and had about 40 sails under my belt — either as skipper or crew — through my sailing club. That turned out to be more than enough preparation. Whether you follow the ASA path or take a different route, giving yourself time on the water to build real experience makes all the difference.

Pro Tip: One thing that caught me a little off guard — during ASA 101, 103, and even 104, I hardly anchored. But when you're bareboat chartering in the Sea of Cortez, there are no mooring balls — it's all anchoring, every night. So if you're prepping for a trip like this, definitely get some anchoring practice in ahead of time. The good news? Most anchorages in the Sea of Cortez have soft, sandy bottoms — great holding and way less stress when it’s time to settle in for the night.

Beyond that, I felt more than prepared. Honestly, with the experience I had going into it, I probably could've done this charter a bit sooner. I also had the benefit of sailing on San Francisco Bay — one of the best training grounds out there, with heavy wind, shipping lanes, and plenty of real-world challenges to sharpen your skills.

June 2024 – Picking the Right Boat

We did this trip in June of 2024, and it ended up being just two of us — myself and a friend who had very little sailing experience. I’ll admit, there was a little bit of anxiety going in, knowing I’d be the only one with real sailing background. But honestly? This kind of trip can be done with just one other person, as long as you’re reasonably confident and make good use of tools like autopilot. For example, we used the autopilot to hold a steady heading while raising sails, pointing into the wind without needing someone at the helm — super helpful when you're short on hands.

We went with a 41-foot Beneteau monohull, which was more than enough boat for two people. It had three cabins, and we used the third as a giant storage locker for food and gear — a game changer in terms of space and organization. It also had two full bathrooms with showers, which made life onboard a lot more comfortable. I’d say this size is perfect for up to four people, assuming you’re only using two of the cabins. Any more than that and it starts to feel a little tight. If you’ve got a larger group, I’d recommend going bigger or looking into a catamaran for more space and privacy. But for two people, the 41-footer was roomy, comfortable, and still totally manageable.

Once you're out on the water, sailing a 30-foot or a 41-foot boat isn’t all that different — you’ll feel it in docking and anchoring more than anything else. But the extra space? Worth it

Why We Went in June — and Why I’d Do It Again

We sailed in June, which is considered down season in the Sea of Cortez. I was a little worried it’d be blazing hot, but once we got out on the water, it was totally manageable. Not a cloud in the sky all week. The boat stayed cool enough with the breeze, especially while underway or at anchor, and the sunshine was unreal. One of the reasons we were able to do the trip with just the two of us was because the price was about a third of peak-season rates. That’s a huge difference compared to March or early April.

The anchorages weren’t totally empty — but they were empty enough that finding space was never an issue. It was actually really cool to cross paths with some of the same cruisers throughout the week. We’d see familiar boats at the next stop, maybe dinghy over for a drink or just chat from the water. It had this relaxed, friendly vibe that you probably don’t get during peak season. Definitely one of the highlights.

We also happened to go during a moonless week, which I originally thought might be a downside. I figured moonlight would help with visibility at night. But honestly? I ended up loving it. The stars were everywhere — from horizon to horizon — and without any light pollution or moon glow, it was one of the clearest skies I’ve ever seen. By 9:00 PM, I was usually ready to crash anyway, but those hour-or-two stargazing sessions were unforgettable.

Once you leave La Paz, don’t expect cell phone service — we were off-grid for nearly the entire week. That was exactly what we wanted. No texts, no calls, no doomscrolling. Just water, sky, and the occasional pelican.

That said, we did find one exception about halfway through the trip in San Evaristo, a small fishing village where we were able to catch some Wi-Fi from a local restaurant. I’ll talk more about that stop later, but if you follow a similar route, just know you can check in with the world around the midway point — if you really need to.

Also, navigation apps like Navionics still work, since they’re GPS-based. You won’t have internet, but you’ll still know exactly where you are on the chart. GPS, chartplotter, and downloaded maps had us covered.

Most days, we had steady, mellow wind — around 12–15 knots — but at night, we hit something called the Coromuel winds, a local nighttime phenomenon that can bring strong gusts into certain anchorages. It’s something to be aware of when picking your overnight spots.
👉 Click here to learn more about Coromuel winds.

Route Overview – From La Paz to Isla San José

Leaving La Paz was the perfect start. As soon as we pulled out of the marina and started heading north, we caught a light breeze and immediately felt like we were out there. Right away, we saw jumping mobula rays — dozens of them flipping out of the water near the surface. It was wild. I didn’t get any pictures (too busy sailing), but it was one of those unforgettable moments right off the bat.

The first major stop, just a few hours from La Paz, is Isla Espíritu Santo — a protected island with multiple anchorages on both the east and west sides, though the east side has more options. It’s a great area to explore, and we actually stopped at two anchorages here — one on the way out and one again on our return leg.

👉 Playa Candelero (Candelero Bay)
👉 Ensenada Grande

From Espíritu Santo, we sailed north to Isla San Francisco, a small island with a perfect crescent-shaped anchorage that feels like it was made for a travel magazine cover.
👉 Isla San Francisco

After that, we stopped at San Evaristo, a small fishing village that felt like a true step off the map. There’s a little restaurant, a school, a few houses, and a tiny convenience store. The people were incredibly friendly, and it was one of those anchorages that sticks with you — not for the scenery, but for the sense of being way, way out there.
👉 San Evaristo

We sailed as far north as Isla San José before turning around and retracing our route back south. That’s about the upper limit I’d recommend for a 7-day charter. Some cruisers try to push further north toward Loreto, but honestly — that turns your trip into nonstop sailing with very little time to relax at anchor. If your goal is to enjoy the scenery, swim, hike, and actually spend time in these places, keep your loop between La Paz and Isla San José. It’s more than enough.

Getting There & Provisioning

We flew into Los Cabos International Airport (SJD) and rented a car for the drive to La Paz — about 2.5 hours. You can also fly into La Paz Airport (LAP), but flights can be limited and usually cost more. We chose Cabo because we wanted to make some stops along the Pacific coast on the way back, including Cerritos Beach (more on that here). Renting a car gave us that flexibility.

Another perk of coming through Cabo: we were able to stock up on supplies before the drive. Cabo has several large supermarkets, including Costco, Soriana, and La Comer, which made provisioning easy. That said, La Paz has plenty of grocery options too, so even if you fly in directly, you’ll have no problem finding what you need.

One thing that surprised me: meat prices were actually pretty close to U.S. prices. Other stuff, like produce, snacks, and dry goods, was noticeably cheaper.

One tip that cost us a beer run: if you’re provisioning around election season, watch out for dry laws. We went during the first weekend of June, and because of a national election, liquor sales were shut down the day before our charter. Like many charters, we were allowed to sleep aboard the boat Sunday night, which technically counts as Day 1, even though it's mostly about unpacking, checking the boat, and getting settled. We were planning to set off early Monday morning, but we couldn’t — because we still needed to hit the liquor store once it reopened. And let’s be honest — there was no way we were sailing for a week without beer, wine, and tequila. Lesson learned: check the local calendar before you sail.

Final Thoughts – The Good, The Windy, and The Wild

This was one of the most remote, peaceful trips I’ve ever taken — and that’s exactly what we wanted. But it’s worth calling out a few things so you know what kind of trip you’re signing up for.

The Coromuel winds are real. They kick up at night in certain anchorages and can get gusty. We managed fine, but if you’re not aware of them, they can catch you off guard.
👉 Make sure you read up on the Coromuel winds before planning your route.

Also, this isn’t a party cruise. These anchorages are totally uninhabited, with no bars, no beach clubs, no marinas. You’re not sailing from town to town — you’re anchoring in quiet coves with no one around. If you’re looking for nightlife, this isn’t it. But if you’re looking to disconnect, slow down, and feel like you’ve left the world behind, this is your trip.

As for wildlife — it was a bit quieter than I expected. Besides the mobula rays we saw jumping near La Paz, we only saw a few pods of porpoises, and no whales. I think the timing had a lot to do with that.

Why There Was Less Wildlife in June

June falls between peak wildlife seasons in the Sea of Cortez:

  • Whales (like humpbacks and blue whales) are most common December through April, when they migrate to the warm waters to give birth.

  • Whale sharks are also more common in late fall through early spring, especially near La Paz.

  • Mobula rays, which we saw, tend to gather in May and June, so we hit that window perfectly.

  • Diving/snorkeling with big schools of fish or sea lions is better in cooler months when water temps are lower and visibility is higher.

In short, June is great for weather and solitude, but it’s not peak season for marine life. Still — you got the tradeoff: fewer boats, peaceful anchorages, and all the Baja sun you could want.

Gear I Used

Written by Tyler, founder of Globetroves™.
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Posted June 2025